What gear should i ride at lets say sherman?  I want to say a 29 (front) 42 (rear) as i would like to not have to walk up any hills.

But what is realistic?  i have a 32 front ring.  should i go 20, or you think that would be too big?

Enoch wrote on 05/02/14 at 8:35pm:


I agree with Jerry. Another option is something like a 34x20, which is what I usually run (along with a 32x20).

32x18

I just started riding SS this year so I'm a little familiar.  Sherman is definitely the easiest.  A good starting gear would be 32x18 as most are saying.  32x18 is fine for everything else too, but WWC and RRT are a bit tougher.  You may want to start with 32x19 for the first few weeks and progress to 32x18.  32x19 at Sherman is a pretty light gear though so if you only ride there, definitely start with 32x18.

I'm going a little different then most. I have never ridden with ya so I don't know how ya ride. First do you like to sit and spin high cadence (90) on geared bike or do you like to grind a lower cadence(70).  Also what's your average speed at Sherman on a geared bike(9, 10,11) If it's on the lower end and, or you like to sit and spin go 32x20. if you like to stand and mash or speed average is above 11 go 32x18. I see no point in hurting knees or back by starting on to hard of a gear. It will take some time to adjust to what ever gear you choose but I see way to many people trying to slug up a hill and then complain their knees hurt the next day. Start with the 32x20 since it's what ya have already and give it a week or so then try a 18 or 19.

Like the two answers above. Run what ya brung and see what you like. If it feels like youre spinning out and want to mash a little more, drop down a tooth or two in the back. I ran 32x18 pretty much everywhere for everything around Charlotte and the same once I moved up here to Durham. It was the good in-between ratio for me that fit my riding style at most trails in both areas.

32x19 if your riding byt

mtbkpete wrote on 05/04/14 at 4:30pm:


lol 26 is 4 nerds

I always thought 32x20 was the norm. 

Basically the starting point on a 29" SS around here.

agree with the working up to a harder gear, I started on a 32x19 6 years ago and walked a lot, should have been on a 20. After countless days of back aches and cramps the 19 got to the point I didn't walk anymore locally and it became very comfortable even for long days on the trail. Now if your wanting to hop into a summer series race you'll have to run at a minimal an 18 or 17 to be competive with the blistering speeds being put up by the top SS  guys

IntheBush wrote on 05/06/14 at 12:22am:


Was this on a 26er or a 29er?  If a 29er, more power to you.  32x16 would be a damn tough gear.  On a 26er, I think you are back in our ballpark. 

Should be finished building today. I am going g ro start with 32 20 and go out and see if I can use something less. I have heard from multiple sources that 34 20 is a better feeling gear and will try that as soon as I have the front ring here.  I am not even sure that I'll like it,  but had the extra frame and decided I'd give it a go.

Run what you have, adjust from there if necessary...what on earth does "better feeling gear" mean?   

I run 32:21 generally, but I'd rather make it up the steeper stuff, plus my fitness sucks now.   


kawsakimx6 wrote on 05/04/14 at 2:46am:



Way cheaper than cassettes!

sager wrote on 05/06/14 at 2:09am:


A 29'r.

I was running that gear in my late 40's. I suspect if I had been running it at 25 years old, with my legs then, I would have perfectly happy with it. But then 29r's didn't exist at that time. 

Even then, when I had a 26" wheeled bike and 18 speeds I only used the middle and the big ring, and at most 2 or 3 gears on each ring. Almost never used the granny gears or the small ring. The shifters in those days were notorious nut crashers on hard uphills and shift speeds were long. Like today, It's about getting in the right gear before you get on the terrain where it's needed. With good legs it's just easier to get out of the saddle and power up most stuff in a higher gear. 

Nothing better for the ego than powering uphill past some guy struggling to get in granny gear. Besides, IMO it's just better mountain biking technique and better for your workout and back, to stay out of the saddle as much as possible. 

In a manner of speaking, gears make you lazy. Especially if you're using them to sit in the saddle all the time. Next thing you know, you need a suspension, etc.. because your ass and back are taking all those hits. I say fine, if that's one's cup of tea. Been there, done that.

As for the single speed, on the super hilly stuff sometimes you're going to walk the bike. Comes with the territory. You'll just walk it a little more with the lower gear. 

But on the slight hills, flats and downhills, or on the road you're rocking. With 32x16 maybe even too much so around here if you're peddling all the time. Therefore, I pedal less to keep my speed and momentum up, so it's not one for one. Meaning sometimes it's harder with the higher gear, sometimes it easier because you carry more momentum with the 29r.

I still have the 16t and 20t cogs, and chains for them. That way it's a fairly quick change depending on the type of riding I intend on doing. But like others have said and based on my experience, if I had one speed for most local conditions, it would be the 32x18 ratio. 

Save the drama for your mama. 

IntheBush wrote on 05/06/14 at 9:20pm:

That's a whole lotta words just to say "+1 to 32x18"   

KitJ BBQman wrote on 05/07/14 at 3:36pm:


Yep.

Somebody asked a question. I elaborated.

There's a method to my madness that I don't mind sharin' occasionally.

I am going to have to try something different. I had 39/20 and it seemed to spin-y. Switched to 39/16 and tried it last night at Park Road/Marion Diehl and it is proving to be too hard. Made my knees hurt. Especially there where it is so hard to maintain momentum. I kept having to slow down to negotiate the techy stuff and then would have to climb with no speed. Thinking to drop the 39 to a 34 and see how that feels. The 39 is just what came with the cranks so I think it has to go.

On my old steel 29er I used everything from a 32x16-20 depending on where I was riding. 32x16 at Beatty/Sherman and 32x19/20 at RRT and Pisgah... 32x18 can get you up almost everything in Charlotte if you try hard enough.

Now I have a cassette, shifter, and derailluer like a normal, sane mountain biker

Enoch wrote on 05/15/14 at 7:13pm:


Quote:


So sounds like 32 is the ticket....I am a stubborn sort so I may still try the 34 just for kicks but will get a 32 also. 

I like learning through trial and error. 

Shredder wrote on 05/16/14 at 4:55pm:


Yes it is to further complicate matters. Keep in mind too that I have only ridden the bike like 4 times so it might be that my knees just haven't exploded yet.

If 2 to 1* is ideal for a 26" wheeled bike (32x16), and 1.78 to 1* is ideal for a 29" wheeled bike (32x18).

Then a similar ratio to wheel size on a 650b wheeled bike would split the difference and be 32x17 (1.88*) or 34x18 (1.89*).

* crank rotations to wheel rotations.

SteelSingle wrote on 05/16/14 at 11:26pm:


Ah yes the mysteries of the universe.

Thanks very much for your offer. That's very kind of you. Let me see what I can find and I will let you know. 

Oden wrote on 05/19/14 at 3:54am:


Right about the time I get rid of the 39.