So I've come into a GT Verb on a great deal and can't get this XCM off it quick enough. I'm a bit stuck though. The frame has a tapered headtube, but comes stock with a straight steerer fork with a crown race adapter, and a hub with a 9mm QR. In my search for an upgrade candidate, I'm stumbling a bit. I feel like I should take advantage of the opportunity to run a tapered steer tube fork, but there aren't many forks out there with tapered steerers and 9MM QR. I'm looking at $250ish range of forks, I'm finding some closer to $400.

So I guess my questions are, is the tapered steerer worth all this searching or should I just get a Manitou Markhor with a straight steerer tube and move on with my life? Or should I search for a unicorn fork with tapered and 9mm? OR, should I go tapered/boost and either buy a new hub and rebuild my front wheel, or get a new front wheel all together?

I wouldnt bother worrying about going tapered.  If you can find a nicer fork with a straight steerer and qr, then thats the way to go. (My opinion)... that being said, wheelset is generally the best upgrade you can make, but that will at least double your budget if you want to do both. If you can save up and get a new wheelset and a new fork, unless your rear is boost (without googling the frame i doubt it if the front is qr) then just go non boost 15mm - youll have tons of fork and wheel options. If they are just stock wheels, however, i wouldnt suggest relacing the front just to get a better fork (esp tapered), as stock wheels probably arent worth the hassle...

Thats my opinion. Hope it helps. If not, feel free to ignore - as long as you have fun ride bikes.

With all of the changes that have come from different standards over the years, I'll say that going from a front QR to a 15mm thru axle was easily the most notable difference for me. The difference in stiffness and steering precision is very noticeable, not to mention both the safety factor, and wheel is always lined up correctly factor. I'd say go tapered and TA, and then you'll be future proof for a good while. You can get front hubs pretty cheap too and just rebuild your existing wheel or just get a whole wheel.

If you have not built wheels before,  then it is not a good idea to try your first on your own and without the proper tools. Honestly, re-lacing a stock rim if not worth the trouble, and youd also need to do a proper spoke calculation to determine if you could re-use the old spokes, or if you have to order new spokes. Generally OEM wheels are worth $50-100/set in resale value, and youll easily spent more than that for a decent hub and spokes.

Wheels are the boggest inprovement on a bike (from.stock, generally speaking) as higher end wheels will be stiffer and generally very significantly lighter (sometimes half a pound to a full pound depending on what you upgrade to) and rotational wieght makes the most difference in bike handling. Not to say not to get a new fork since you want one, BUT it might be best if you can upgrade wheels and fork together (save up) and go with a front 15mm thru axle fork that is tapered, then youll have a vastly nicer bike and be tempted to keep it for a few years.

Good buget wheelset would be something like a Stans Arch Wheelset, for general trail riding and balance of budget and performance.

I may have missed it. But what wheel size are you running?

What a dilemma..

The minute you spend the dough upgrading this thing with new parts, is the minute you'll decide it's time to try a 29er.   

And that my friend, is why we have a marketplace. And why many of us end up with multiple bikes.