If your rebuilding, start with a Hub that can be easily serviced with parts that are readily available, and a axle configuration that can be updated.

Good hubs are like investments that you can take from bike to bike. I have some hubs that I've been using since 2000.

I have a Roval wheel set. They are a DT Swiss hub. I like them for the ease of service. They are tough enough for my style of riding. I bought a pawl set that has a higher number of pawls and the engagement is noticeably quicker. Same for bearing replacement. 
There are other hub brands out there for sure that are lighter and certainly more expensive and "purdier" and probably better quality.

So I have a particular question to add to the OPs.  I got a new set of Industry 9 wheels with a classic torch Hub.  I noticed when I have my bike hanging and spin the back wheel, it seems to coast to a stop sooner.  I thought this made sense as the increased engagement had to come at a cost, but the friction resistance added is insignificant when riding the bike.

I have always been a fan of King hubs hubs and have had a bunch. (72 POE)

My last wheel set I built with DT Swiss 240.  I was really impressed with the DT440 on my DH bike.

On paper the 18 POE vs the 72 POE sounds like a massive step backwards, but on a geared MTB bike it really does not matter.  Not enough for me to even bother replacing the ratchets with the 36 or 48 that is readily available and take 3 min to install.

On my single speed I  still have  Kings and love the quick engagement.

yyNuke wrote on 02/26/16 at 3:07pm:



How new are they?  They may just need a "break in" period... I'm assuming your rotor isn't rubbing?

I have to respectfully disagree with some of the others. In my experience good hubs made a huge difference. When I went from a lower end LBS bike to an upper end (though several years old) bike, the difference in the hubs (basic Shimano to Mavic Crossmax) was major. For months after the change, when riding familiar trails I noticed the way the bike took off after cresting a hill and starting down. It was not that I expected it; it kept surprising me. I coasted through sections I had previously pedaled through. This was with similar tires. IMO any resistance in the hub must be overcome with every pedal stroke and every rotation of the wheel. A small difference in resistance adds up over the course of a ride. I think it's one of the best improvements that can be made. High end shifters and derailleurs are nice, but they don't do much to make you faster. Good hubs and a good bottom bracket do make you faster during a ride and fresher at the end.

The difference between a very good hub and a great hub may not be large, but from cheap to very good was noticeable for me. Like most component upgrades, there's the law of diminishing returns.

Agreed ^^^^.  You were more likely feeling the lower rotational mash of a lighter wheel/rim over a stock wheel.  I've had Chris Kings and Hope Pro II EVO's on my mtb's and Industry 9 hubs on my CX/GG bike and they all have their merits.  I like the Chris Kings because they have by far the best and most reliable bearings you can get on any hub...period.  Their bearings are also highly serviceable many, many times.  Their freehub engagement is good and through it's design the harder you pedal the more clamping force the ring gear has.  = no slipping.  What I don't like about the CK's are they are not user friendly at all and require their own set of tools (that Chris King makes.  And they are as beautiful as the hubs!) to completely service.  I like the Hopes and the I-9's for the ease of service but choose the Hopes as their bearings tend to last longer than the I-9's, IMHE.

If you want less rolling resistance and a livelier wheel, look at a complete wheel build with good quality rims, spokes and hubs.

Cherokee wrote on 02/29/16 at 3:18am:


In the real world, trail conditions, rider technique, tire design, tire pressure, brake drag, suspension damping characteristics, and to some extent suspension geometry all have an effect on conservation of forward momentum while coasting. As does wheel bearing friction, and freehub friction.  

When you change all of those things at once, the net result can be a perceptible change (for better or worse). 

Other things to consider... riding an all together better bike can allow for more rider confidence, which can result in being able to carry more entry speed into the flat sections where you would coast through. The bike taking off after cresting a hill (i.e accelerating) likely has more to do with a lower moment of inertia on the better (lighter) wheel/tire combo, and to a lesser extent, lower overall bike weight. Less mass to accelerate results in quicker acceleration.

I just blindly throw money at I9 because they make pretty colors and go bzzzzzzz.

Also they are stiff as $h!t, set up tubeless well, I can beat them up in Pisgah and not have to true them after, have almost instant engagement, and are almost universally configurable. oh did I mention they were pretty.

Also I don't usually notice a big difference going from a "normal" wheel to I9 but I notice what normal wheels don't have once I get back on one, if that makes any sense.

sCvHeaVens wrote on 03/07/16 at 7:39pm:


I definitely agree. Cup/cone style wheel bearings are a major PITA to get adjusted properly. If you ride on them for any significant distance while they are not set just right, it will cause irreparable damage and they will never roll smooth again. When that happens, the hubs basically need to be thrown away. If you find yourself in that situation it definitely makes sense to upgrade to something that at least has cartridge bearings.

Entire wheelsets DO make a huge difference. Part of that, no doubt, is due to the hubs. But most of it is due to weight savings and stiffness of build. If you have the cash and are looking to make an upgrade, wheels are a great place to invest your money. 

The only other upgrade that would have as noticeable of an impact would probably be suspension. Particularity upgrading a fork from a steel stanchion, coil spring unit to aluminum stanchion, air spring, with proper damping.